Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Cultural Nuances: School Lunch

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Schools are some of the best places to really study a country’s culture. After all, schools are where culture is taught to children. Yes, reading, writing, and ‘rithmatic are taught, too, but one of the most important jobs a school has is to pass along societal habits, norms and values to their students. Teaching in a Japanese school allows me a rare insight into these social details, and I thought I’d share some of the more interesting discoveries I have made. Today, we’ll look at school lunches.

Lunch is a big affair, with all of the students in the school gathering in the cafeteria. In American schools, lunch is usually split, with the younger students eating earlier and the older students eating later. Here, all the students eat together, and each has a special table for their age and class. Teachers eat with the students as well, about two teachers for every table. Lunch is carefully planned around nutritional standards and usually consists of rice (or two pieces of bread), meat (usually fish), soup, some sort of side dish (sometimes a noodle or mushroom salad), and always a carton of milk.



Each class has a few students helping to serve lunch, even the first graders. They have white jackets, facemasks, and hairnets that they wear as they serve lunch out to their classmates. For the first grade, the students walk to the serving area, make up a plate, and bring it back to give to another student. Then, other students walk up and make a plate and bring it back to give to someone else, so that each student is being served by another student. The second graders seem to make their own plates, so it may just be a tradition for the first graders.

The entire time this is happening, soothing, happy is music is being played (I distinctly heard ‘When You Wish Upon a Star’, so think music along those lines). Teachers walk around with the extra food and students raise their hands to indicate that they would like more of a certain dish and the teachers dole it out. Once everyone has their lunch, the music stops and another students stands at the head of the cafeteria and announces what the lunch is and leads the students in saying ‘itadakimasu’. Literally translated, this means ‘I humbly receive’, but it basically means ‘let’s eat’ or ‘bon appetite’. At this point, the students and teachers begin to eat, mostly in silence (though, given that these are kids we’re talking about, there is a fair amount of whispering). All in all, the lunches are tasty, though sometimes the way they look can be a little off putting (whole fish, baby fish, goopy soup, etc.). The children are diligent in cleaning their plates, and I haven’t seen a single student not finish their lunch. The students are also very neat while eating, pulling out their personal handkerchiefs or tissues to clean up any spills. The most adorable example of this was when one of the students (a first grader) dropped two pieces of rice between his tray and his neighbor’s tray. His neighbor looked at him, pointed to the rice, and the boy quickly picked it up and put it to the side on his tray.



Once about twenty minutes have passed the music begins to play again, signaling that lunch is almost over. About five minutes later another student comes up and announces anything that needs announcing before leading everyone in saying ‘gochisosamadeshita’ or, basically ‘it was a feast’.

The students then stand up and begin organizing the dishes, stacking the bowls and plates, putting all of the empty milk cartons and straws on a tray, the chopsticks on another, and each student takes a stack of dishes or a tray to the cleaning area to deposit. Then, they grab their toothbrushes from the shelf nearby and brush their teeth at the nearby trough sink.







Needless to say, there are a few differences between Japanese and American school lunches. I’d say the main difference is the idea that the students are members of the school, not participants in the school. They are expected to help with lunch, clean up after themselves, and generally respect the school the way they would respect their home. Lunch is very ordered and community minded. Everyone (even teachers) eats the same thing and children don’t have the option of bringing their own lunch. There is very little waste, children finishing their lunches even if they don’t particularly like the food that is being served that day. I love lunch times both because it’s a prime opportunity for people watching, but also because there is a real sense of community. The kids are also ridiculously cute, chattering away to me in Japanese as I nod and smile and try to get my points across with charades. 

So far, I'm enjoying the lunches, though I seem to have had better luck with food than some of the other JETs. I'll detail the rest of my adventures in school culture as I go, but this has been the most startling thus far.

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

The only foreigner

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Sakegawa is a town of about 5000 people, spread over a fairly large area. It used to be five different hamlets before it was condensed into one village. In the entire incorporated township, I am the only American (and I’m fairly sure I’m the only foreigner, though there may be a Belgian man running about somewhere). It’s a strange sensation, like living in a fishbowl. No matter where I go or what I’m doing, I inevitably get stares. It isn’t meant to be rude, people are just curious, and it generally doesn’t bother me. Occasionally, when I’m having a rough, confusing day, the scrutiny can be a bit overwhelming, but I’ve found that a bright and pointed smile at the gawker usually solves the problem.

Having grown up in a fairly diverse part of California, I think it’s hard for me to imagine how truly alien I must look in a society that fully admits its own homogenous makeup. It makes me particularly worried about my behavior because I know that, given human nature, some people will generalize my actions to be true for everyone in my country. There was a particular moment during a festival where I had purchased several different festival foods out of a desire to try as much as possible. I was starving and just wanted to sit somewhere and eat, however I kept worrying that people would see me pull out several containers and assume that all foreigners ate that much on a regular basis, or that I eat that much on a regular basis. It took me a good hour and a half to finally talk myself into just sitting down and eating some food, to hell with what people thought. Even then I couldn’t quite relax.

There are perks to being the only foreigner in town, too. The amount of free food I’ve been given could feed a small family for a month. The strangest example of hospitality I have experienced was when a stranger stopped alongside me as I walked home and asked whether I liked pumpkins. After I admitted that yes, I did indeed like pumpkins, he demanded I get in his car and then drove me to his farm where he gave me four pumpkins before driving me home (without ever needing any directions, which was a little disconcerting).



Similar, though less extreme, situations happen pretty much every day. Desserts, dinner, sacks full of vegetables. Little, thoughtful gifts from people who want to welcome me to their town. It’s the double edged sword of living here. Intense hospitality and unending scrutiny. It’s a good trade off. Even if it means my refrigerator is full of rotting vegetables because I haven’t figured out how to eat them all before they go bad. Ah well.

Friday, September 2, 2011

Sakegawa

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The train ride to my town was relatively short – only three and a half hours. Considering the distance is about from Northern California to Southern California, I was pleased it didn’t take longer. The scenery was breathtaking, and I may have been a little too camera happy, though I ended up taking only a few pictures, but a boat load of videos.

I was the last stop on the train, way up in little old Shinjo. It was strange to watch all of the friends I’d made in orientation depart one by one until, finally, I was the only one left. Okay, that’s a bit dramatic. The orientation advisor was with me and there a but load of other people on the train, too, they just weren’t JETs. I practiced my self introduction, much to the amusement of the little old Japanese woman a few seats up, who periodically stifled her laughter into her hand at my abysmal pronunciation and sentence structure. To give you some perspective on what I sounded like, let me give you  the bones of my introduction.

Nice to meet you! I am Alyssa. I am American. I come from California. First time Japan. I like baking. I like reading. Nice to meet you!

Yeah. The fact that I sounded like an overeager five year old didn’t stop me from being ridiculously, inordinately proud of myself for managing even that much. Finally, we pulled into Shinjo station. Now, the rest of the JETs had been picked up by their supervisors or other city officials holding signs with their names on them. Being picked up by someone holding a sign has been a long held dream of mine, so I was pretty excited to see my sign. Unfortunately, that didn’t happen. I think that given the fact I was the only JET being picked up at Shinjo station that a sign would have been a bit superfluous. Ah well, it is a dream for another time.

My supervisor, head boss, and predecessor picked me up from the station. I decided not to give my self introduction just then as standing on a platform, holding my luggage and telling everyone that I like to bake and read might have been just a wee bit awkward. I got the royal treatment as I was taken from the station. Nice city car, front seat, people carried my bags. Awesome. There was a fair bit of awkward silence in the car as I tried to form sentences in Japanese that didn’t begin with “I like”. Thankfully, my predecessor Brianna was there to help out and make things a little less ridiculously tense. We spoke in snippets and I did my best to keep up and understand, Brianna filling in the gaps in my comprehension. There was a brief tour, the best ways in and out of Shinjo being pointed out as we rolled into Sakegawa.

Our first stop was the town hall where my luggage had been shipped. The office is quite nice, and the area of the office where I work has six other people. Upon entering, I gave my little self introduction and was greeted warmly, albeit a bit nervously by my new coworkers. They’d made a ‘guide book’ of sorts, filled with names and faces of the people in the office. Considering how bad I am with names and faces, it was much appreciated (and really freaking adorable). After exchanging pleasantries (as translated by Brianna) we lugged my bags to the car.

Finally it was time to see my house. I’d built it up in my head to be this awesome, roomy dwelling that would be perfect for my time in Japan. It did not disappoint. The house is, first of all, a house and very roomy by Japanese standards. It has two rooms (the bedroom/living room and a guest room/office), a kitchen, a bathroom, a laundry/vanity area, and a toilet room. There’s also a fairly large garage underneath the house accessible by a fairly treacherous stairwell. Hardwood floors plus socks do not an ideal combination make. Oh, did I mention the flat screen HDTV that they bought for the house? No? Well, they bought a flat screen HDTV for the house, much to my and my PS3’s delight. Am I bragging? Hell yes. It is my blog, I can brag if I damn well please.

The view outside of my bedroom window
My house from the outside
At that point I was told to relax for an hour or so, change into something more comfortable and then Brianna and her husband Gabriel would take me out to dinner. The first thing I did once everyone had gone their way was to crank the air conditioning. After wearing a suit in the middle of the Japanese summer, hot and heavy with humidity, this was like pure bliss.

After lounging a bit, Brianna and Gabe came by and it was off to Shinjo for shopping and dinner. Grocery shopping was overwhelming, made less so by having someone with me who understood all of the labels and knew where to find the food I wanted. Dinner came next, and oh man, was that a treat. Sushi and yakiniku (which is basically meat grilled on a little firepit at the table. Delicious.







Sated and verging on a food coma, it was time for bed and my first night sleeping on a futon. Wasn’t that bad, besides wrestling with the irrational fear of bugs crawling over me in the middle of the night. All in all, my first day in Sakegawa was a success and the rest of the week followed pretty much in the same vein. 

And now, here's a bit of photovomit, all off the gorgeous town of Sakegawa, my current home.










Saturday, June 18, 2011

Yamagata-Ken? More like Rockagata-WIN.

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Finally have my placement, and I couldn’t be happier.



I’ll be headed to a small town in Yamagata Prefecture, just outside of Shinjo City.



It hits pretty much every check box on my list.

  • North Western Japan
  • Small population (less than 6,000)
  • Beautiful landscape
  • Close to the sea (a little over an hour by car)
It’s also definite that I’ll be in an Elementary and Junior High School, which is exactly what I was hoping for. High School is nice, of course, but working in Elementary and Junior High is what I’m good at, and younger kids are just more fun.

I’ve also been lucky enough to speak with my predecessor and a few other people already there (which, just let me say – I am overwhelmed by how welcoming and friendly everyone has been, far beyond my expectations). They’ve all pretty much confirmed that the village is a top notch placement to have and just a great place to be a JET.

Some of what I’ve found out from my predecessor so far:

  • I’ll be getting 4-6 feet of snow in the winter and I’ll be rolling in humidity in the summer
  • Fall and spring, however, are gorgeous and lovely
  • My town is famous for fishing and the Totoro Tree
  • I live within walking distance of the Board of Education and the elementary school
  • There has been one (known) centipede in the house in three years
  • They have a judo club and a softball club
  • I’ll be living in a small house which sounds like just the right size for my needs
  • The area is full of things to do. Fruit picking, SCUBA diving, hiking, fishing, skiing, snowboarding, the list goes on!
There’s lots more, but that’s what I’ve been able to process thus far. I really couldn’t be more pleased with my placement. I haven't been able to find too many pictures, but here's the one good picture I have scrounged up.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Destination Japan

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One of the main draws of participating in the JET Program is the opportunity to travel through Asia. I have quite the list of places to visit while I'm living in Japan (and an even longer list of places outside of Japan that I can knock out while abroad). My travel interests tend to lean toward the historical end of the spectrum, with a folksy twist on occasion. These first five locations are near and dear to my heart, having been on my 'to see' list for quite some time.

1. Yonaguni Monument, Yonaguni Island 


Yonaguni is an intriguing and mysterious location. Resting off the coast of Yonaguni Island, it consists of what some say are natural formations, and others say are man made structures. While this site can only be reached by scuba diving, it is not an easy undertaking. With strong currents and hammerhead sharks, it is suggested that beginning divers steer clear or hire a guide. The breathtaking underwater vistas, however, are well worth the price of a guide to many, though. The magnificent diving opportunities aren't the only reason to visit the remote island. Yonaguni Island is also well known for its cliffs, caves, and interesting rock formations. The island also happens to be the southern most point of Japan. For people who enjoy a good boozing, visiting Yonaguni provides the chance to try Hanazake, a type of Awamori only brewed on the Yonaguni. While this island's mysteries may be hotly debated for years to come, one thing remains certain - it is a unique sightseeing opportunity.


2. Aokigahara Forest, Honshu


Aokigahara is a forest located at the western base of Mount Fuji. Another name for the forest is the Sea of Trees, owing to the tall, densely growing giants who grow so close together in some places that they nearly block out the sun. The forests other nickname, of course, is Japan's Suicide Forest. Ominous, yes? Well, there's good reason. Roughly eighty people each year travel to Aokigahara to take their lives. Morbid, I know. However, there are other reasons to visit Aokigahara besides the chance to satisfy one's fascination for creepy locales, specifically the forest's natural beauty. There are caves, gorgeous forest paths, and even a waterfall. Of course, the fact that there might be dead bodies lying around deters some from visiting. And suicide isn't the only grisly aspect of the forest's history. Aokigahara was also a popular spot for the practice of ubasute, or basically the abandonment of the old and infirm in the wilderness to an eventual death by exposure. Yes, this forest has a creepy past, and if anywhere on Earth is haunted, it's probably here. You are well within your rights to think I'm crazy to want to visit, I won't hold it against you.

3. Tokyo Disney, Tokyo

Not much explanation needed here. I'm a California girl, born and raised, and a huge part of my childhood revolved around annual visits to Disneyland. Since I've grown up, I've also made it to Disney World, and hope to make it to every Disney park before I die. Yes, I know they are pretty much identical, but childhood dreams don't have to make sense.  After all, I still very much plan on being an astronaut firefighter cowgirl.


4. Nine Hells of Beppu, Beppu

Now, I'm still a little wary about the whole idea of skintimacy and Onsen culture. Will I try it? Of course. Am I super excited for a bunch of strangers to see my jiggly bits? Not so much. Given that disclaimer, though, I do love a good dip, and Beppu seems like a prime spot for some onsen hopping. With almost 2,800 hot springs (and we're talking hot springs, here!) there is no shortage of places to do a little self-boiling. It also has it's fair share of beautiful sights, my favorite being the "Sea Hell", as pictured on the left. Unfortunately, there's also a pool filled with nine crocodiles. As anyone who knows me can attest, I have no love for crocodiles, even the ones behind plexiglass and fences. Inevitably I end up imaging horrible situations where I accidentally fall over the fences, or through the glass and into the crocodile enclosures, and am then torn apart. So...might be skipping the crocodile hell. All the rest, though, sign me up!

5. Jigokudani Park, Nagano

You know how I just said that I love hot springs/hot tubs? Well, you know what else I love? Monkeys that love hot springs/hot tubs. Located in the Japanese Alps, specifically in Jigokudani (Hell's Valley), the park is home to a group of macaques that took over an onsen in 1963 and have been bathing in the warm water ever since. On top of the adorable spectacle that the macaques make, the area is also quite lovely, and boasts a nice little walk (about 30 minutes) through the forest to reach the onsen. The nearby town of Shibu has some visit worthy features as well, including a 700 year old street chock full of onsens, restaurants, and ryokan hotels. With gorgeous nature, a historical town, and monkeys acting like people, Jigokundani Park is a must see on my list.

Annnd, those are my current top five on a long, long list. I'll give a full report after the completion of each one, but for now, all I can do is research and plan.

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

The sum of my parts

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Well, paperwork is all in, and now it's another round of the waiting game. Thankfully, there are plenty of ways to pass the time until June. And most of the ways involve me gorging myself on all the food I'll miss while in Japan. Oh quesadillas, I'll miss you the most.


I suppose now is as good a time as any to say a little more about myself. I'm a twenty-four year old Californian currently living in Davis. I currently work with special education students in elementary school, though I just recently quit a job as an insurance claims adjuster (which was quite the lesson in masochism, but a different story altogether).

I'm not particularly into Japanese pop-culture, though I was when I was younger. That being said, I am a ginormous geek and make absolutely zero effort to hide that fact. I adore television, with my current go-to shows being Supernatural, Doctor Who, and 30 Rock. I'm also eagerly awaiting the next season of BBC's Sherlock.


As previously stated in my first post, I am a lover of food in all of its many, many forms. Also, literature. Unfortunately, I'll be leaving all of my books behind when I move. Fortunately, my Kindle should pick up the slack. I love team sports, though haven't been able to participate in any lately as it's rather hard to find a sports league that caters to people over 18 and under 40.


And, that's me in a nutshell. A very tiny nutshell, possibly a deformed walnut that never finished growing. Or something. Good grief, it is late. Time to end this here before I get even more ridiculous.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

The process thus far

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Paperwork, paperwork, paperwork.

I would say that I never thought moving to another country would be so difficult, but that's just a blatant lie. I think it's a notoriously bureaucratic process - especially when you'll be working for a foreign government while still retaining your citizenship.

So, here's what the process has looked like since results were sent out. About two days after we received notification of acceptance, an email came with the following documents:

  • Certificate of Health
  • Reply Form
  • IRS Form 8802
The certificate of health requires an immigration physical and a TB test. This is the piece of the paperwork that is currently holding up my response, as I do not currently have health insurance and am trying to find a physician that will do the physical for under $150.00. Though, in the end, I'll pay what needs to be paid, because it's worth it.



Our JET coordinator has also set up a google group just for the San Francisco JETs, which has been tons of fun (and by fun, I mean 'inbox clogging'). Everyone has been introducing themselves, and it's nice to know I'll be going over having a vague idea of who some of my coworkers are.


The deadline for forms to be submitted is May 9th, and the next round of paperwork probably won't arrive until a few weeks after that (hopefully around the time we learn where we'll be placed). It looks like its going to be fairly turn key from here on out, and the real process will be packing and preparing to leave.


Man, I do not even want to think about my furniture.